,DICKHEADS 
,! P>ADOX ( ! NECKTIE RESOLV$ 

,PEOPLE 3 

,AU?OR 3 ,DAVID ,GRAEB] 

,TEXT 3 

,SOME PEOPLE 7ME1 = 9/ANCE7 PUT A GREAT DEAL ( 5]GY 9TO ORGANIZ+ !IR LIVES SO ?AT !Y'LL NEV] HAVE TO WE> A TIE4 ,I'VE (T5 WOND]$ :Y ?IS %\LD BE4 ,:Y %\LD TIES HAVE SU* SYMBOLIC P[]8 ,IT'S NOT AS IF O!R P>TS ( A =MAL SUIT--:ITE %IRTS1 TAILOR$ SLACKS1 VE/S1 OR BLAZ]S--9SPIRE ! SAME SORT ( 9DIGNATION4 ,SOMEH[1 IT FEELS AS IF TY+ ! NECKTIE >\ND Y\R NECK M>KS A F9AL ACT ( CLOSURE4 ,IT'S ! ACT ?AT TRANS=MS ALL ?OSE ITEMS 9TO A SUIT1 ) ALL ! SUIT IMPLIES1 :E!R IT'S ! P[] ( ! BO>DROOM OR ! C]EMONIAL =MALITIES ( W$D+S & FUN]ALS--?AT :OLE WORLD ( (FICIAL BUS9ESS OV] :I* M5 9 SUITS 9V>IABLY PRESIDE4 ,NO D\BT1 P>T ( ! OBJECTION TO ! TIE IS TO ! PURE >BITR>9ESS ( ! ?+4 ,A TIE S]VES NO FUNCTION4 ,IT DOESN'T HOLD Y\R TR\S]S UP OR KEEP Y\ W>M4 ,BUT AT ! SAME TIME1 IT'S UNCOM=TABLE1 SO MU* SO ?AT PUTT+ IT ON DOES SOMEH[ FEEL LIKE A GE/URE ( SUBMISSION1 A RELUCTANT PL$GE ( ALLEGIANCE TO EV]Y?+ ! SUIT IS SUPPOS$ TO REPRES5T4 

,/ILL1 IF Y\ ?9K MORE AB\T IT1 !RE'S SOME?+ PECULI> GO+ ON H]E--A K9D ( P>ADOX4 ,YES1 A TIE EMBODIES ! MESSAGE ( ! SUIT1 BUT 9 MANY WAYS IT'S ! V]Y OPPOSITE4 ,AFT] ALL1 ! RE/ ( ! SUIT IS ALMO/ 5TIRELY B]EFT ( DECORATIVE ELEM5TS4 ,SUITS T5D TO BE D>K1 SOB]1 BOR+4 ,TIES >E SUPPOS$ TO BE ! EXCEPTION4 ,! TIE IS ! ONE PLACE :]E Y\'RE ALL[$ TO ADD A LITTLE COLOR1 TO EXPRESS Y\RSELF A LITTLE4 ,:Y1 !N1 %\LD ! ONE ?+ ?AT'S LEA/ LIKE ! RE/ ( ! SUIT SOMEH[ FEEL LIKE IT EMBODIES ! MESSAGE ( ! :OLE8 

,READY1 ,AIM1 ,ATTIRE6 

,=MAL MALE CLO?+ WASN'T ALWAYS BOR+4 ,9 ,ELIZABE?AN TIMES1 = 9/ANCE1 M5--P>TICUL>LY RI* & P[]FUL ONES--W]E JU/ AS 9CL9$ AS WOM5 TO DECK !MSELVES \T 9 FLA%Y JEWELRY & BRI<T DECORATIVE COLORS1 & EV5 7AS 9 ! C\RT ( ,L\IS ,X,I,V7 TO WE> WIGS1 P[D]1 & R\GE4 ,ALL ?IS *ANG$ 9 ! EI<TE5? C5TURY1 A P]IOD SOME HI/ORIANS ( DRESS HAVE REF]R$ TO AS ! AGE ( ! 0,GREAT ,MASCUL9E ,R5UNCIATION40 ,SUDD5LY1 MALE CLO?+ WAS EXPECT$ TO BE LESS ORNAM5TAL1 MORE G5]ALLY BUS9ESSLIKE ?AN WOM5'S4 ,EV5TUALLY1 SOME?+ V]Y MU* LIKE ! MOD]N BUS9ESS SUIT BEGAN TO EM]GE3 UNI=M1 D>K 9 COLOR 7! MORE S]I\S ! CONTEXT1 ! D>K] IT %\LD BE7 ) LITTLE OR NO PATT]N+--ITS V]Y DULLNESS EMBODY+ S]I\SNESS ( PURPOSE4 

,! MOD]N BUS9ESS SUIT APPE>$ >\ND ! TIME ( ! ,9DU/RIAL ,REVOLUTION1 & IT EMBODI$ ! SPIRIT ( ! EM]G+ B\RGEOISIE4 ,SU* M5 SC(F$ AT >I/OCRATIC FOPS AS P>ASITES4 ,!Y SAW !MSELVES 9/EAD AS M5 ( ACTION1 DEF9$ BY !IR ABILITY TO DIRECT & TRANS=M ! WORLD4 ,!Y W]E PRODUC]S2 >I/OCRATS W]E M]E CONSUM]S4 ,& 9 ?IS NEW B\RGEOIS ORD]1 CONSUMPTION WAS TO BE ! DOMA9 ( WOM51 :O CONT9U$ TO WE> P[D]1 LIP/ICK1 NECKLACES1 & E>R+S 7?\< USUALLY NOT QUITE SO EXTRAVAGANTLY71 EV5 AS !IR HUSB&S GAVE !M UP4 

,?IS TRANS=MATION EXPLA9S A NUMB] ( CURI\S USAGES SURVIV+ 9 \R [N =MAL CLO?+3 NOTABLY1 ! WAY A BLAZ] CAN /ILL BE REF]R$ TO AS 0SPORTS JACKET10 EV5 ?\< Y\ W\LDN'T WANT TO RUN A RACE 9 ONE4 ,9 FACT1 ! BUS9ESS SUIT D]IVES NOT FROM >I/OCRATIC =MAL WE>1 BUT FROM HUNT+ CLO!S--?IS IS :Y FOX-HUNT]S1 = 9/ANCE1 /ILL WE> SOME?+ V]Y MU* LIKE ONE4 ,BO? UNI=MS >E A K9D ( ACTIVE WE>1 ADOPT$ BY A CLASS ( PEOPLE :O WANT$ TO DEF9E !MSELVES ?R\< !IR ACTIONS4 

,ACTUALLY1 ,I SUSPECT ?AT ! ULTIMATE D]IVATION ( ! BUS9ESS SUIT IS FROM A SUIT ( >MOR4 ,! SUIT1 AFT] ALL1 5CASES Y\R BODY1 COV]+ AS MU* ( IT AS POSSIBLE2 :AT M9IMAL OP5+S TO ! WORLD SU* CLO!S DO AF=D--AT Y\R NECK & SLEEVES-->E B\ND TI<TLY TOGE!R BY TIES & CUFF L9KS4 ,! CONT\RS ( ! BODY >E ?US OBSCUR$1 9 /RIK+ CONTRA/ ) WOM5'S =MAL WE>1 :I*1 EV5 9 COV]+ ! BODY1 CON/ANTLY H9TS AT REVEAL+ IT1 & P>TICUL>LY AT REVEAL+ ITS MO/ SEXUALIZ$ ASPECTS4 ,SKIRTS1 EV5 :5 !Y COV] ! L[] HALF ( ! BODY COMPLETELY1 T5D TO =M AN OP5-5D$ CONE :OSE APEX IS BETWE5 ! LEGS1 & EXCEPT 9 ! MO/ PRUDI% TIMES1 !RE HAS BE5 SOME GE/URE T[>D REVEAL+ ! CLEAVAGE4 ,IT'S ALMO/ AS IF ! /AID UNI=MITY ( M5'S ATTIRE IS MEANT TO EFFACE 9DIVIDUALITY JU/ AS ITS DESIGN IS MEANT TO MAKE ! BODY ITSELF 9VISIBLE2 WOM5'S =MAL WE>1 ON ! O!R H&1 MAKES ! WE>] BO? AN 9DIVIDUAL & AN OBJECT TO BE SE54 ,9DE$1 ! CONV5TIONS ( HI<]-CLASS FA%ION 5SURE ?AT ANY WOMAN WE>+ SU* AN \TFIT IS OBLIG$ TO DEVOTE A GOOD DEAL ( TIME & 5]GY TO MONITOR+ H]SELF TO MAKE SURE TOO MU* IS NOT REVEAL$ &1 MORE G5]ALLY1 TO CON/ANTLY ?9K+ AB\T :AT %E LOOKS LIKE4 

,& ?IS IS /ILL TRUE4 ,JU/ RECALL ! BIFURCAT$ FA%IONS AT ! SEXUAL BATTLEGR\ND ( Y\R HI< S*OOL PROM4 ,! GUYS ALL DRESS$ ID5TICALLY4 ,!Y W]E1 9 EFFECT1 SPORT+ A UNI=M4 ,BUT IF TWO GIRLS W\ND UP WE>+ ! SAME DRESS1 !N OH1 :AT A SC&AL4 

,! ,FRAIL ,GAZE 

,IT SEEMS TO ME ?AT ?IS V]Y EFFACEM5T ( 9DIVIDUALITY IS ITSELF ONE WAY ( EXPRESS+ P[]4 ,! ,FR5* PHILOSOPH] ,MI*EL ,F\CAULT >GU$ ?AT ! EI<TE5? C5TURY 7! P]IOD ?AT SAW ! EM]G5CE ( ! BUS9ESS SUIT7 M>K$ A PR(\ND TRANS=MATION 9 H[ P[] CAME TO BE EX]CIS$ 9 ,EUROPE & ,AM]ICA4 ,9 A FEUDAL ORD]1 ,F\CAULT SUGGE/$1 P[] EXI/$ 9 ORD] TO BE SE54 ,IT WAS 5%R9$ 9 ! V]Y BODIES ( ! K+ & NOBLES1 :I* W]E ON CONT9UAL DISPLAY 9 PORTRAITS1 PAGEANTS1 & C\RT C]EMONIAL4 ,COMMON FOLK W]E FACELESS SPECTATORS4 ,! MOD]N BUREAUCRATIC /ATE REV]S$ ALL ?IS3 SUDD5LY1 IT WAS ! P[]FUL :O W]E FACELESS1 DEP]SONALIZ$ AB/RACTIONS1 AS IT WAS !Y :O DID ! 9SPECT+1 EXAM9+1 & MONITOR+ ( EV]YBODY ELSE4 

,:AT ,F\CAULT WAS REALLY TALK+ AB\T W]E TWO DIFF]5T MODES ( EX]CIS+ P[] ?AT ALWAYS EXI/1 9 ANY SOCIETY4 ,SOMETIMES ! G5]AL /RUTS AB\T %[+ (F HIS M$ALS1 & SOMETIMES HE'S 9SPECT+ ! TROOPS1 :O >E EXPECT$ TO KEEP EYES FIX$ FIRMLY 9TO SPACE4 ,9DE$1 ! MO/ P[]FUL WAY TO REPRES5T P[] HAS ALWAYS BE5 TO REFUSE TO REPRES5T IT4 ,?AT'S :Y ,GOD OR SPIRITS 9 SO MANY TRADITIONS CANNOT BE %[N 9 IMAGES2 IT'S ALSO :Y ! WAY TO %[ ?AT SOME?+ IS TRULY P[]FUL IS TO HIDE IT1 TO R5D] IT 9VISIBLE1 9EFFABLE1 UNKN[ABLE1 UTT]LY FEATURELESS & AB/RACT4 ,?AT :I* IS UNKN[N1 ,?OMAS ,HOBBES ONCE REM>K$1 IS = ?AT REASON UNLIMIT$4 ,IT C\LD BE ANY?+2 !RE=E1 Y\ HAVE TO BE PREP>$ TO ASSUME IT C\LD DO ANY?+ AS WELL4 

,I SUGGE/ A SIMPLE =MULA3 ,TO EXPRESS P[] ?R\< DISPLAY IS TO SAY TO ?OSE OV] :OM ONE EX]CISES IT1 0,BEHOLD1 SEE H[ ,I HAVE BE5 TREAT$4 ,I HAVE BE5 TREAT$ ?IS WAY BECAUSE ( :O ,I AM4 ,N[ Y\1 TOO1 MU/ TREAT ME ?IS WAY40 ,K+S COV] !MSELVES ) GOLD AS A WAY ( SAY+ ?AT Y\ MU/ COV] !M ) GOLD AS WELL4 ,TO REFUSE ANY SU* DISPLAY1 9 CONTRA/1 IS TO SAY1 0,Y\ SIMPLY HAVE NO IDEA :AT ,I AM CAPABLE (40 

,IF ?IS =MULA IS TRUE1 ! G5]IC QUALITY ( =MAL MALE CLO?+1 :E!R DONN$ BY FACTORY [N]S OR FUNCTION>IES1 MAKES SOME S5SE4 ,!SE UNI=MS DEF9E P[]FUL M5 AS ACTIVE1 PRODUCTIVE1 & POT5T1 & AT ! SAME TIME DEF9E !M AS GLYPHS ( P[]--DISEMBODI$ AB/RACTIONS4 ,WOM5'S =MAL ATTIRE1 ) ITS FL\NCES & FRIPP]IES1 SEQU9S & :ATNOTS1 DEF9ES ITS WE>] AS SOME?+ ?AT Y\ LOOK AT1 AS A PASSIVE OBJECT1 BUT AT ! SAME TIME MAKES H] BODILY1 SPECIFIC1 & EV5 UNIQUE4 7,! WORD 0SPECIFIC0 IS ORIG9ALLY D]IV$ FROM ! ,LAT9 SPEC]E1 MEAN+ 0TO LOOK AT40 ,IT'S ! SAME ROOT AS GIVES US 0SPECTACLE10 09SPECTION10 & 0SPECIM5407 ,JOHN ,B]G]'S FAM\S ANALYSIS ( ,EUROPEAN OIL PA9T+1 ,WAYS ( ,SEE+1 NOTIC$ ?AT ! SOCIAL PRES5CE ( A MAN 9 SU* QU9TESS5TIALLY B\RGEOIS SETT+S ALWAYS TURN$ ON :AT HE WAS ASSUM$ TO BE ABLE TO DO 7! 0PROMISE ( P[]0 HE EMBODI$71 :ILE ?AT ( A WOMAN TURN$ ON H] APPE>ANCE1 :I* WAS TAK5 TO 9DICATE H[ %E HAS TREAT$ H]SELF--& !RE=E :AT IT IS ACCEPTABLE TO DO TO H]4 ,ROB]T ,GRAVES SUMM$ IT UP EV5 MORE PRECISELY2 9 ! WORLD ?OSE OIL PA9T+S REPRES5T1 0,MAN ,DOES2 ,WOMAN ,IS40 7,ONLY IT'S NOT CLE> ?AT ,GRAVES MEANT ?IS AS A CRITICISM67 

,SEMIOTICS ( ! ,B>N ,DOOR1 ,OP5 

,SO :AT DOES ANY ( ?IS HAVE TO DO ) NECKTIES8 ,WELL1 AT FIR/ GLANCE1 ! P>ADOX HAS ONLY DEEP5$4 ,IF ! MESSAGE ( ! SUIT IS ?AT ITS WE>] IS A L>GELY 9VISIBLE1 AB/RACT1 & G5]IC CREATURE TO BE DEF9$ BY HIS ABILITY TO ACT1 !N ! DECORATIVE NECKTIE MAKES LITTLE S5SE4 

,BUT LET'S EXAM9E O!R =MS ( DECORATION ALL[$ 9 =MAL ATTIRE & SEE IF A L>G] PATT]N ( S>TORIAL P[] BEG9S TO EM]GE4 ,DECORATION ?AT'S SPECIFIC TO WOM5 7E>R+S1 LIP/ICK1 EYE%AD[1 ETC47 T5DS TO HI<LI<T ! RECEPTIVE ORGANS4 ,P]MISSIBLE M5'S JEWELRY--R+S1 CUFF L9KS1 FANCY WAT*ES--T5DS TO ACC5TUATE ! H&S4 ,?IS IS1 ( C\RSE1 CONSI/5T3 IT IS ?R\< ! H&S ?AT ONE ACTS UPON ! WORLD4 ,!RE'S ALSO ! TIE CLIP1 BUT ?AT'S NOT REALLY A PROBLEM4 ,! TIE & ! CUFF L9KS SEEM TO FULFILL !IR FUNCTIONS 9 P>ALLEL1 EA* ADD+ A LITTLE DECORATION TO TI<T5 A SPOT :]E HUMAN FLE% /ICKS \T1 NAMELY ! NECK & WRI/S4 ,!Y ALSO HELP SEAL (F ! EXPOS$ BITS FROM ! REMA9D] ( ! BODY1 :I* REMA9S EFFAC$1 ITS CONT\RS L>GELY 9VISIBLE4 

,?IS OBS]VATION1 ,I ?9K1 PO9TS ! WAY TO ! RESOLUTION ( \R P>ADOX4 ,AFT] ALL1 ! MALE BODY 9 A SUIT DOES CONTA9 A ?IRD POT5TIALLY OBTRUSIVE ELEM5T ?AT IS MO/ DEF9ITELY NOT EXPOS$1 SOME?+ ?AT1 9 FACT1 IS NOT 9DICAT$ 9 ANY WAY1 EV5 ?\< ONE DOES HAVE TO TAKE IT \T1 P]IODICALLY1 TO PEE4 ,SUITS HAVE TO BE TAILOR$ TO ALL[ = UR9ATION1 :I* ALSO HAS TO BE DONE 9 SU* A WAY ?AT NOBODY NOTICES4 ,! FLY 7:I* IS 9VISIBLE7 IS A B\RGEOIS 9NOVATION1 MU* UNLIKE E>LI] >I/OCRATIC /YLES1 SU* AS ! ,EUROPEAN CODPIECE1 ?AT (T5 DREW EXPLICIT ATT5TION TO ! G5ITAL REGION4 ,?IS IS ! ONE P>T ( ! MALE BODY :OSE CONT\RS >E 5TIRELY EFFAC$4 ,IF HID+ SOME?+ IS A WAY ( DECL>+ IT A =M ( P[]1 !N HID+ ! MALE G5ITALS IS A WAY ( DECL>+ MASCUL9ITY ITSELF A =M ( P[]4 ,IT'S NOT JU/ ?AT ! TIE SITS ON PRECISELY ! SPOT ?AT1 9 WOM5'S =MAL WE>1 T5DS TO BE ! MO/ SEXUALIZ$ 7! CLEAVAGE74 ,A TIE RESEMBLES A P5IS 9 %APE1 & PO9TS DIRECTLY AT IT4 ,C\LDN'T WE SAY ?AT A TIE IS REALLY A SYMBOLIC DISPLACEM5T ( ! P5IS1 ONLY AN 9TELLECTUALIZ$ P5IS1 DANGL+ NOT FROM ONE'S CROT* BUT FROM ONE'S HEAD1 *OS5 FROM AMONG AN ALMO/ 9F9ITE V>IETY ( O!R TIES BY AN ACT ( M5TAL WILL8 

,HEY1 ?IS W\LD EXPLA9 A LOT--:Y M5 :O WE> B[ TIES >E UNIV]SALLY TAK5 TO BE N]DS1 = EXAMPLE4 ,TRUE1 A B[ TIE C\LD BE TAK5 = A PAIR ( TE/ICLES4 ,BUT EV5 SO1 B[ TIES >E SMALL1 & !Y PO9T 9 5TIRELY ! WRONG DIRECTION4 ,MAFIOSI WE> TIES ?AT >E TOO FAT & COLORFUL2 DISSIPAT$ SOPHI/ICATES WE> ?9 TIES2 C[BOYS WE> /R+ TIES ?AT PRODUCE ! EFFECT Y\ MI<T EXPECT FROM WE>+ A B[ TIE & A REGUL> TIE AT ! SAME TIME--ORD9>ILY1 ?IS W\LD BE TOO UNSUBTLE1 BUT C[BOYS >E MY?IC HE-M5 :O CAN GET AWAY ) IT4 7,JAMES ,BOND CAN ALSO GET AWAY ) A B[ TIE1 BUT !N HE'S BASICALLY JU/ A GIANT P5IS ANYWAY47 

,PR(ESSIONAL WOM5 HAVE FAC$ 5DLESS PROBLEMS OV] :AT TO WE> >\ND !IR NECKS4 ,WE>+ A TIE IS CONSID]$ SEXUALLY PROVOCATIVE1 ?REAT5+4 ,IT'S TELL+ ?AT ?IS IS ! ONLY ASPECT ( TRADITIONAL MALE ATTIRE WOM5 HAVE NOT BE5 ALL[$ TO ADOPT4 ,9 ! #a#i#hS & #a#i#iS1 !RE WAS SOME EF=T TO DEVELOP FL\NCY B[S AS AN ALT]NATIVE1 BUT ?AT DIDN'T REALLY WORK \T4 ,! EXP$I5T TODAY IS NOT TO PUT ANY?+ AT ALL 9 ! OP5 SPACE REVEAL$ BY ! JACKET1 & JU/ LET ! ABS5CE SPEAK = ITSELF4 

,Y\ CAN TAKE IT FROM H]E4 ,BUT LET ME 5D ) A LA/ OBS]VATION AB\T G5D]4 ,AS AN AN?ROPOLOGI/1 ,I AM AW>E ?AT ONE ( ! MO/ COMMON FEATURES ( PATRI>*Y--& ?IS IS TRUE 9 A SURPRIS+ NUMB] ( PLACES1 FROM ,AFRICA TO ,SW$5 TO ,NEW ,GU9EA--IS SOME IDEA ?AT WOM5 PRODUCE NATURALLY 7!Y BE> *ILDR57 & ?AT M5 PRODUCE CULTURALLY 7!Y CREATE SOCIETY74 ,/AT$ \TRI<T1 ?IS IS AN OBVI\S LIE--PRETTY MU* EV]Y:]E Y\ GO Y\ CAN F9D WOM5 DO+ MO/ ( ! WORK ( PRODUC+ SOCIETY TOO4 ,SO ! MESSAGE ( ! PATRI>*S HAS TO BE COMMUNICAT$ OBLIQUELY4 ,& ,I SUSPECT ?AT TRADITIONAL =MAL CLO?+ IS ONE SU* /ATEM5T4 

,?9K ( IT ?IS WAY3 IF NONE ( US WORE ANY CLO!S1 !N IT W\LD BE ! MALE G5ITALIA /ICK+ \T VISIBLY1 :ILE WOM5'S W\LD REMA9 L>GELY HIDD54 ,MAYBE ! 5TIRE PO9T ( =MAL ATTIRE TO 9V]T ?IS POSSIBILITY1 TO SAY1 0,YES1 9 NATURE1 IT IS WOM5 :O HAVE MY/]I\S HIDD5 P[]S ( CREATION1 BUT ONCE WE GET ALL DRESS$ & CIVILIZ$1 IT'S PRECISELY ! O!R WAY >\ND40 

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